Todays' route from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino is just over 21kms or 13 miles. Today we head towards the mountains and tomorrow we climb to the highest point of the entire route.

Rabanal can feed us, but it won't clothe us for the mountain weather, which can be unpredictable at the best of times. So have we warm and waterproof clothing and is our equipment in good order?

Astorga is the last opportunity to kit out before the ascent. However, there are several small villages on today's stretch where we can buy food and refreshments, many bearing the suffix somoza from the Latin sub montia, or under the mountain.

This should be a relatively gentle day and the promise of a good nights rest in Rabanal to prepare us for the climb the following day.

Murias de Rechivaldo - is a typical Maragato village with interesting rustic parish Church of St. Stephen and several bars, restaurant, shop on the camino.

From here we can proceed directly to Santa Catalina via the new senda, the recommended route or via the local road to the classic Maragato village of Castrillo de Polvazares (national monument) and thence via path to join the main route (5.7 km) - although this latter route is not well waymarked.

Santa Catalina - another typical village of the region which, in bygone days, had a pilgrim hospital. The parish church houses a relic of San Blas after whom the church and albergue are named.

El Ganso - a hauntingly crumbling village, evoking a sense of loss or perhaps more positively a reminder of a less hurried time. In the 12th century it boasted a monastery and a pilgrim hospital.

This is the first of several semi-abandoned Maragato villages that we pass through in the relatively solitary mountains. However, amidst the collapsing thatch cottages are some signs of new life. There is a Parish church dedicated to St. James with a statue of Santiago Peregrino and the Capilla de Cristo de los Peregnnos.

Rabanal del Camino - continues a centuries old tradition of caring for the pilgrims before they take the steep path up and over Monte hago (Mount Rabanal).

This was the IXth stage of Aymeric Picaud's classic itinerary and the Knights Templar are thought to have had a presence here as early as the 12th century ensuring the safe passage of pilgrims over this remote terrain - the Church of Santa Maria was possibly built by them.

Today, an Order of monks originating from Germany have recently taken up residence in the square and the church, now restored, is once again resounding to the sound of Gregorian chant at evening Vespers (19.00) and compline (21:30) with pilgrim blessine.

The Benedictine monastery of San Salvador del Monte Irago was founded here in 2001. The monks run a small shop in the square and also have residential accommodation.