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Today, Bro. William heads up through the pass of Irago to the highest point of our whole journey. While the ascent is steep in places and will require our determination and physical exertion remember that far more injuries (sprains, strains and breaks) are experienced going downhill.
Many pilgrims stick to the asphalt road which has many blind spots and is therefore dangerous. Use the new track that now runs roughly parallel to it effectively making the majority of this stage a safer natural pathway.
When pausing to rest or meditate, we remember that body sweat will turn cold quickly at this altitude as soon as physical exertion stops.
There are several drinking fonts along the way and every mountain village now has a bar and cafe selling food, but it is sensible to take some snacks and we need to fill our water bottles before leaving Rabanal.
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Foncebadon - an eerie and affecting place that features heavily in the camino accounts of Shirley Maclaine and Paulo Coelho. The houses are built from local slate, with thick walls to block the wind and steeply angled roofs to deflect snow.
Many of the roofs are thatched with local broom, and wooden beams were often hammered into place with primitive wooden pegs rather than nails. It's often cloudy here, snow is common in winter, and when it's too warm for snow, the mountains are drenched with rain or obscured by fog.
Acebo - importance as the gateway to the mountains was recognized in mediaeval times, when it was excused from paying tax for as long as the villagers maintained the hundreds of foul weather poles that guide pilgrims on this remote alpine section.
Today, El Acebo is a pretty collection of slate-roofed stone houses typical of the El Bierzo region, with over hanging wooden balconies reached by external stone
staircases.
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Riego de Ambros -
there are great views on the lovely descent through hamlets and river valleys to Molinaseca. In little more than 3km, we arrive at Riego de Ambros via a landscape of broom and wild lavender.
The slate roofs and rural craftsmanship make walking through this village a delight. The sixteenth-century Iglesia de Santa Maria on the edge of the village has an interesting Baroque retablo.
Molinaseca - is a mellow town that lies prettily alongside the wide Rio Maruelo. The gorgeous location attracted the wealthy and the titled, who left behind houses that still bear elaborate coats of arms.
Historically, the town's importance came from its strategic location on the first flat, open land this side of the mountain pass, and ancient bridges helped make it a control point along the Roman gold road.
Molinaseca was a significant town in mediaeval times, too, and once boasted four pilgrim hospitals.
Today's attractions include the Iglesia de San Nieolas, which contains an image of San Roque Peregrino, and a weekly street market. In summer, it's a lovely overnight stop.
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